By Christina Ballinger & Pauline Fisher

Visit the small village of Drayton, near Langport in South Somerset on the third Saturday of the month and you’ll be in for a culinary surprise. The market in Drayton, which has been running for six years, predates all the Farmers’ Markets in the county. Loyal customers from the village, and beyond, armed with shopping baskets throng into the Village Hall on the dot of 10 o’clock looking for the best and freshest food.

Part Farmers’ Market, part WI market, the Drayton market has stalls that span the range from commercial businesses to hobby food producers. Among the commercial producers are Duncan Small from Charlton Orchards (apples and vegetables), Rob Walrond from Glebe Farm (beef) and Dodie Huckster of South Ham Lamb (lamb products and wool). Farms such as these also sell at Farmers’ Markets in the area, along with food processors such as Liz Neville of Parrett Preserves.

However, the market in Drayton is not a Farmers’ Market. This means that Drayton’s stallholders do not have to comply with the rules governing Farmers’ Markets. Although some of the stalls do meet the Farmers’ Markets criteria (all food should be produced within a 40-mile radius of the individual markets, all produce should come from the producer’s holding or premises, stalls must be staffed by the principal producer, or someone involved in production), others do not.

Several stalls are run by villagers on a non-commercial basis. Market organiser, Pauline Fisher, for example, sells a fine range of cheese bought from traditional Somerset cheese-makers such as Chris Duckett from Wedmore, Montgomery’s and Keen’s.

Drayton Community Market sprang to life in September 1997, the month after the first Village Street Fair was organised by Drayton newcomer, Michelle Burrows. Now in its sixth year, 14 market stalls staffed by local people offer a wide variety of produce.

In addition to the expected - and quite exceptional - cakes and preserves, villagers can buy organic sausages, home produced bread and fresh pasta, smoked eel and salmon, Craster kippers, pork pies, real farmhouse butter, Cheddar and Caerphilly cheese, locally produced (and un-GM- modified) fruit and vegetables.

They can also enjoy an excellent cup of coffee - freshly percolated. The coffee machine was bought as a Village Hall amenity from the (small) market profits.

There is a waiting list for stalls at the market (£3 a time). Drayton villagers, however, may sell whatever items they choose on the designated Village Stall, without charge. Should they wish to offer a substantial number of items, the agreement is they will help staff the stall.

The market enterprise is organised and maintained by a foundation group of eight. Further volunteers may be conscripted whenever necessary!

Drayton Market Feasts began with a one-off celebration of the first anniversary of the market. The five-course meal - a non-profit Tasting Feast - was designed to represent the range of produce that the market presented - judicious advertising! Nearly 70 villagers sat down together to food which was cooked and/or presented by the helpers and stallholders. In true French Feast fashion, people brought their own covers (cutlery, glasses, plates) arranging them according to a pre-determined seating plan on the two tables which extended the length of the hall.

The overwhelming response to this event ensured that further feasting followed including a Thai Curry Evening, a Spanish Tapas Evening, a Scandinavian Evening and Burns Nights - complete with Piper, Haggis and Address. The most pleasing aspect of these occasions is their popularity with the entire community, and young and old.

Drayton’s increasingly experienced 'helper on the night', teenager Tom Leeming certainly appreciates the extra earnings - and welcomes the free meal involved. (He wasn't entirely certain about the Haggis though....).

Drayton's Market initiative has set a trend in South Somerset. Active support and encouragement was given to Pitney Community Market, which was set up in February 1999 - modelled on Drayton. The Drayton organisers offered them advice (lots of that, of course), stallholders - including a Drayton Village Stall - and not to mention the loan of the coffee machine!

Today the quartet of village markets in south Somerset - Pitney, Burrowbridge, Dayton and Barrington - is testament to the success of the early pioneers in Drayton!

Pitney Produce Market is on the first Saturday in the month, Burrowbridge Produce Market on the second Saturday, Drayton Produce Market on the third Saturday and Barrington Produce Market on the fourth. Markets run between 10am and 12pm